Rotted Steel = FAIL!

When building a car you’ll find that with every small success there’s usually also a set-back lurking around the corner.  Unfortunately project BatBerry has now seen its first minor set-back 😦

After performing the final separation of the body from the chassis in preparation to go to the media blasters, we’ve found that the frame is in too poor condition to be used for the donor.  There’s just way too much metal rot all over the chassis.

At least the engine/transmission and the wiring harness is still usable as a donor for the BatBerry 🙂

I’ll be heading to the shop to haul the engine & transmission to my place as soon as I can make arrangements.  So off to Princess Auto I go to buy myself an engine hoist!  I was hoping to put that purchase off for a while, but I’ve found that you just have to roll with the punches.

The search is now on for a new chassis for the BatBerry.  Fortunately we have leads on 4-5 other cars that we’re going to check out.  I’m keeping my fingers crossed that we’ll be able to find one with a solid frame.

To be continued….

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11 thoughts on “Rotted Steel = FAIL!

  1. Why not build your own chassis? With a car of this nature, building your own would give you far more opportunities to establish mounting points (as required). The one downside of reusing an existing frame, is the body you utilize may not easily ‘mate up’ to the frame. I would also note you can buy pre-formed ‘frame rails’ for your chassis from places in Canada (Bear’s Performance) or the US (e.g. Art Morrison).

    Check out the following book which may help provide some inspiration on the steps involved: http://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Coddingtons-How-Build-Chassis/dp/0879386266/ref=sr_1_9?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1300997632&sr=1-9

    1. It really comes down to cost.. I’d have to pay someone to build the frame. The caprice frame has been used multiple times for this build and is a great fit with people who have direct experience and feedback on how to make it work

      1. Drop me an email if you need any help (note I am a fellow co-worker)! I can give you some help on the metal-working/fab side of things if need be. I have a Miller 210 and an oxy-acetelene torches (fine welding, not cutting) in my shop. I work cheap (beer usually does the tick, lol)!

        Don’t worry about the engine hoist wheels, I did exactly the same thing when I put mine together (still haven’t reversed the wheels yet). One of those things I just never get around to doing (always something else on the go).

        You will have to give me some secrets on how you got sponsorship for your project. That is pretty cool!

  2. You could try looking for 9c1 police models that were used in a salt free state. That may help. Typically, those cars spent about their first year sitting waiting to get put into use, a year or two on the road, then about a year until someone bought them at auction. That at least reduces the “age” a bit if it was a salt free state.

    Also, be cautious of anything that’s been parked on grass or soil for a while. That’s typically equally bad.

    1. Yeah, I’ve been considering that route… it’s just a long drive from the southern states to Toronto, Canada Eh? 🙂

      I think the car I first tried was a combination of the two evils. Driven in an environment with road salt and then stored in a driving shed with a soil floor. Unfortunately the perfect storm 😦

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