Today was a little bit of back and forth between working on the passenger bat-disc door and starting on the wheel-bat fabrication. I spent the morning running errands and picking up supplies but was able to put in a full afternoon of work.
The work on the passenger side bat-disc door was pretty much a repeat of the work done on the drivers side. I was able to file down and shape the area that I filled in to provide a better fit around the square tube that runs through the door as an accent.
I was also able to fasten the steel backing plate to the door and weld in the square tube and cross brace.
Next will be building the tray for the bat-discs and then using some short strand fiberglass and some forms to create the rounded ends near the hinge.
While I was in-between curing times and cooling off periods from welding the bat-disc door I started work on the mounting mechanism for the wheel bats.
First I started by trimming the wheel-cones so that they had an even flange all the way around their base that would fit within the rivets on the wheel. This was accomplished by simply using a little piece of MDF as a spacer moving it along the base and marking as I went.
Once I had that finished I marked the center of the cones. When everything was marked I trimmed the cones and drilled a 3/8″ hole in the center.
I found that 3.5″ exhaust pipe had a nice snug fit inside the inner diameter of the wheel and also fit perfectly with my steel spacers. However, I now have a lot of extra 3.5″ tubing since it only came in 10 foot lengths. Oh well 😦
I cut the 3.5″ tubing a bit longer than I needed and then welded it to a steel spacer. I performed the welding in a few passes in order to let it cool between welds so that it wouldn’t warp.
I also ground down the surface so that it would be flush and sit flat on the hat of the rotor. I could then push this through the center of the wheel until the spacer was flat against the back of the wheel. It was a snug fit, but with just a little wiggling and tapping it slid right into place.
I was then able to hold the wheel cone on the end of the pipe and measure the distance between the bottom flange and the face of the wheel. I then took that measurement and cut that same amount off the end of the 3.5″ tube.
The idea is to cut some circles to weld into the ends of the tube and weld a 3/8″ lock nut in the center of the circle. I’ll then be able to make a plate for the back of the wheel-bats with a 3/8″ stud on the end. You will then be able to simply turn the wheel-bat on snug to hold the cone in place.
I started off by drawing the circles and drilling the center holes but then called it a day.
Getting some plates fastened onto the back of the wheel-bats will be a bit of an adventure, but I have a plan of attack that hopefully works out 🙂