The day started off with fixing up those damn cross threaded bolts from the exhaust tip mounts. I still can’t figure out for the life of me just how a bolt that was already fastened cross threads itself on the way back out. Strange!
Anywho… I just did the usual and cut out the nuts/washers in a square shape and then cut replacement pieces of steel to weld back in. From there it was the usual process of creating a nut insert, drilling the hole and welding it back in.
Once everything cooled we used the tap and made sure all the threads in the nut were clean and clear of any debris. I don’t want to have to replace them again 😦
I had mentioned in my previous post that we finished welding the fuel tank straps and creating the mounting points in the rear hatch so here’s a quick picture.
We started to take a look at the pick-up tube for the fuel tank and noticed that it didn’t quite want to thread properly. Everything was supposed to fit but it looked like the tank wasn’t wanting to take the pick-up tube threads. I’ll have to call the fuel tank company to see what’s up.
We moved on and did a little bit of priming and painting today as well. After some more clean-up, sanding and grinding on the chassis I lay down a good first coat of some rust proof primer on most of the exposed chassis (picture shown at the top of this post). That type of primer takes a little bit longer to dry, so I plan on using my regular fast drying primer for the second coat.
I also was able to spray a bunch of the pieces with the enamel gloss black using my usual outdoor spraying area.
Most of the afternoon was then spent fabricating a few more pieces out of steel. First was a support brace to connect the 30cal sliders to the cabin wall.
Then we moved on to creating the enclosed area around the rear shock towers. I wanted to make sure that I had an area where I could get access to the top of the shocks but also have it contained from the rest of the cabin so that water could not get inside.
We created a few walls to surround the shock tower and welded them in-place. We also drilled a small hole at the lowest point inside the enclosed area to act as a drain hole if water starts to build up.
We traced the shape on some bristol board and cut out a lid to go on top of the enclosure. Then we added a 1″ lip around the sides of the lid so that it would cover everything up. We finished it all off by drilling a hole in the lip and then through the enclosure wall where I use a self tapping screw to secure the lid.
The last project for the day was running the emergency brake cable. I realized that my e-brake universal system included two cables so that you could use it with a car that had two e-brake connections. My rear axle only has one so I’ll only need one of the cables and keep the second one as a spare.
We quickly realized that the existing hole that I drilled to run the cable under the side rail just wasn’t going to work. It was going to run too close to the exhaust. So we drilled out a second hole right into the side rail which luckily can still be covered by my existing lid. It was some nasty drilling, which actually killed one of my drills, but we finally got the hole to the desired size. We then simply welded a small patch over the pre-existing hole.
Last step was to snake the cable from the rear through the side rail and out through this hole. That was some tricky work but eventually we pulled it through. When I actually connect the cable to the rear drum e-brake assembly I’ll know the length to trim the end of the cable in the cabin. But for now it just will dangle in the cabin. I’ll also place a rubber grommet around the hole where the cable enters the cabin after it’s trimmed to its proper length.
Next will be a second coat of primer, starting to attach the cabin walls and working through the fuel tank mounting and fuel filler neck fabrication.