Front Hood Mounts Finished

This afternoon’s job was to finish up the front mounting boxes for the hood.  These are similar to the ones near the gun doors but in this case I already had the steel mounting point available on the chassis.

To start I cut a piece of 1/2″ plywood to cover the mounting plate.  I made sure the bolt was centered in the hole and then tightened it down with a nut and lock washer.  I also placed 1/8″ steel under the plywood to account for the aluminum plate that I’ll attach to the bottom of the box later.

I then cut a piece of plywood large enough to center the box and provide an extra overlap for fiberglassing it into the hood.  I used a screw to hold it in place and then cut some sides to fit the angle.  This process was replicated on the passenger side as well.

I traced the edges of the sides of the box where they met the larger piece which was screwed to the hood.  This way I could take everything out, build the boxes, and then put them back in place.

The boxes were then glued and screwed together for strength.  They’ll also end up being covered with a layer or two of fiberglass for extra strength and to seal the box from water.

Once the boxes were constructed, I raised the hood back up and bolted the boxes to the frame.  I covered the back side of the larger top piece of plywood with a bunch of construction adhesive and then lowered the hood back down into place.

After a little bit of wiggling and twisting I had the boxes sitting as flat against the hood as possible.  I then drilled and screwed from the top side of the hood down through the fiberglass and into the plywood.  This will hold the boxes in place until the adhesive cures and I get a chance to fiberglass them into the hood.

Here’s a couple of shots of what they look like on the bottom of the hood once it’s raised back up.

Last step will be to bring the hood down, flip it over, and fiberglass the front and rear boxes into the hood.

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5 thoughts on “Front Hood Mounts Finished

  1. Top notch work there. Is the glass pretty thick in that area? The reason I ask is if the Bat is subjected to heat on a regular basis the outline of the wood support might eventually “print” through. More likely to happen here in Florida than in Canada because of the extreme sun/heat. I’m having that problem with my Viper hood where glasswork was done. Of course a lot of the heat is from the INSIDE because of the V-10!

  2. Hi Tim

    Looks like you’re doing a great job. I have a few questions.

    1. All these wooden boxes that you have attached to the shell to mount the chassis with. Is there a reason why you didn’t just use some sort of metal bracket instead? Is it something to do with expansion and contraction of metal versus fibreglass, or more what you were comfortable with?

    2. I see some people have a tilt forward bonnet, and the guy with the helicopter motor had a removable piece in his bonnet, and then the way you have done it. Apart from space being an issue for you, if you had the chance to do the bonnet again would you do it the same way?

    Cheers

    Craig

    1. Hi Craig,
      1. The wooden boxes provide a nice light weight core material that will be covered in fiberglass. Wood soaks in fiberglass resin really well so the fiberglass sticks to it like glue. Metal doesn’t adhere to fiberglass as well.
      2. I can’t really say right now since I haven’t been driving the car. I’m not sure how I’ll like the system for regular maintenance like oil changes, or how much potential damage to the body work there will be each time I raise/lower the hood onto the car. Only time will tell 🙂

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