After picking up a few necessary household items from Canadian Tire the other night, I started in fabricating my side mechanics today. I started out by loading my trusty PlayBook with all my side mechanic pictures so that I had a reference guide out in the garage.
One of the trickiest things that I’ve been trying to do is ignore the optical illusion that these things give off. When you look at them, your first impression is that they have really large diameter pipes… but that is where the illusion lies.
The pipes look huge because of the wide base of the main pipes where they meet the Teddington hot air valves. This tapering is what gives the illusion. So when you look at the rest of my progress pictures you’ll be thinking that they look too thin. This will all change when I build the larger tapered base on the hot air valves. Or at least I hope that’s how it works out 🙂
First up was creating the front piece with the exhaust flange that meets up with the angled downward bulge thingy. I cut the flared piece off of the end of the pipe and then welded and blended it into the flange to give it that one-piece look.
Then I made the bulge thingy. I wasn’t able to give it quite the shape that I wanted because the stainless coffee mug that I used, which had the right shape on the bottom end, had too large of a diameter at the top. So I took some creative license and didn’t give it the exact shape as the ones on the movie car.
This bulge thingy will also have a pipe come into the side of it which will then bolt onto a bracket on the side of the car.
That thin stainless steel from the coffee mug was a Pain In The Ass to weld! It kept burning through. I may be able to give it more of a bulge shape with some fiberglass after I have them all done.
I was using the extra fiberglass versions of the side mechanics that I have for getting an idea on how long to make this part.
I bolted on the first flange piece to see how it looked and then cut off the excess length of the bolts.
I also put a piece of 2.5″ exhaust pipe in the narrow end to keep its shape, and I also tilted it upward a slight bit just like you see on the actual car.
Once I had the flange fit the way I wanted, I cut a circle out of 1/8″ steel and welded it into the flange. After I was done I drilled a hole in the center. This will allow me to bolt the pieces of the side mechanics together and rotate them to get the proper angles.
Once I had the bulge thingy created I could hold it up to my fiberglass versions to figure out what angle I was going to need to tip it downward. I cut a piece of 2.5″ exhaust tube to be the correct angle and cut a piece of 1/8″ steel to put in the end.
I drilled the center of this piece and welded a nut to the opposite side. Then it was just a matter of welding the end of the pipe.
I test bolted this up to the flange that I welded previously by using the center hole that I drilled in the plate steel. This let me figure out how far I needed to go in order to get the second flange in place. I cut the exhaust pipe, cut another circle out of the 1/8″ steel and welded the exhaust piped to the circle.
I created a second flange just like the first one and placed this circle in the middle of the flange. I made sure the new flange was offset from the first one so that the bolts would clear and bolted it all together to see how it looked.
Last step for the day was to create a longer piece with a flared end welded to the flange. This will end up going back to the hot air valves. I’ll end up cutting it to the proper length that I need but that’s for later
I bolted everything together to see how it would look and I threw on one of the pieces that I’ll end up making look like the v-band clamp.
I didn’t have it laying down quite at the exact angle as the fiberglass side mechanics, but it is pretty darn close.
Still lots to go…. I’ll also end up laying down some body filler on the parts to sand them down smooth and not look so ruff.
I did a little bit of work in Gimp to superimpose my side mechanics over the actual ones. I moved the v-band clamp closer to the flanges and I also had to adjust the tilt of the bulge thingy. But they are pretty close. The v-band was just laying in place for the picture so I’ll just have to adjust the angle of the bulge thingy. I’ll just cut a bit out of the top of the connection pipe that will both reduce the top gap and adjust the angle.