Modifying the Seat Rails

One of the most surprising things when it comes to a car this big is that there’s VERY little head room.  Every 1/2 inch counts when you’re trying to get your seating position just right.  When positioning your floor pans you need to make sure that your seats are positioned where you can have good visibility out of the very narrow front windows but still give you enough head room to close the canopy.

I chose the Honda Civic seats because they are cheap and very low profile with very low seat rails.  However, the bolt holes on the seat rails are positioned in a way to tie into the Civic floor pans which dip down.

But in my car I need to sit as low as possible.  The Civic seats have three of these downward mounting tabs as seen in the picture at the top of this post, and one mounting point that’s flat the way that I want it.

The job this afternoon was to make the other three mounting points be nice and flat so that I can secure the seats down through the floor pans and into the steel “basket” underneath.   But in order to bend these down it required cutting the sides of the steel holding them in place.

The only problem with this is that by cutting these side supports it really weakens the structure of the steel.  As you can see the steel also had a bunch of surface rust on it.

After cleaning it up the bottom looked like this: (you can see the notches where the steel was cut)

After making sure that it was nice and flat, I added a plate of steel to the bottom and boxed in the steel around the mounting tab.  This will give a nice strong mounting point for the seats to be fastened to the chassis.

I finished up this same technique on the two other mounting tabs and called it a day.  I still have the passenger seat to complete and then I’ll start marking/drilling my mounting holes in preparation for welding in the steel basket under the floor pans.

4 thoughts on “Modifying the Seat Rails

  1. Hello,

    great job on the Batberry! I’ve been following your blog and hope my 89 comes along as well.

    I would suggest using epoxy resin for laminating the cloth. You’ll get excellent adhesion and the strength you’re looking for.

  2. Thanks Dave!

    I’ll likely stick with Polyester resin since I’m familiar with it and the body shell is made out of Polyester. When I start tying the side panels into the body shell I’ve been told mixing polyester with epoxy resin doesn’t have the greatest adhesion.


    1. Actually, most people that i know who restore fiberglass boats use epoxy resin because it adheres better to polyester than polyester does. The only real concern with using epoxy is making sure the binders in the chopped strand mat is compatible with epoxy. Go to the Classic Plastic website and ask around.

      Dave B.

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