After yesterday’s first attempt on my exhaust tips I decided I would correct the inaccuracies. I knew that they would just bug me every time I looked at them even though no one else would ever notice. Of course I first cleared my head by spending the morning at the skatepark again :)
So I started by trimming the curved end to be more like the ones on the actual car. It’s a shame to see all that welding and finish work go to waste, but my peace of mind is worth more and they actually turned out great!
Next was lengthening the mounting plate so that I could weld on those curvy tube thingy’s. I ended up finding the tubes in the electrical section of the hardware store and then cut them to fit the angle that I wanted.
It was such a beautiful day yesterday I had to make sure I did two things. First head to the skatepark on my BMX to have a couple hours of fun with my daughter on her freestyle scooter. Second was to do some work on the BatBerry.
As I’m finishing up all the fabrication work connected to the chassis, one of the items on the list was to finish up the exhaust tips and their mounting plate. As seen in the above photo, they’re currently just temporarily mounted to a piece of wood that I painted while I was painting some other things in my bronze accent color. But I got to thinking that I “might” be able to use them as functional exhaust tips.
I’m not sure how it’s all going to work out just yet, but I do know I need something much more solid to mount these suckers to the chassis than their current setup. That “ball” on the end makes them very end heavy. The first step in making them functional was to remove the mounting bolts.
Now that everything was cleared out and exhaust can now flow through the pipes I needed to replicate the wooden mounting plates in steel. I actually kind of like the size of the mounting areas. They seem more proportional to the exhaust tips than the mounting plates on the actual Batmobile which aren’t quite as tall (more on that later). This was a pretty simple task of tracing the outline onto four pieces of steel and then using a hole-saw to cut out the openings for the pipes.
Today was the last day of my week of vacation so I decided to knock off a few more items from the TODO list. These were a bunch of odds-n-ends that all need to be done but each one isn’t particularly that exciting.
First was building a cover for the area above where the brake lines connect to the rear cross member and then to a flex line going to the rear axle. Of course one of the self tapping screws I was using had its head snap off, so I’ll have to drill it out and fix it when I have some more room to work :(
So now I have two lids in the trunk. One for the brake line chassis mount (pictured above) and one over top of the rear axle (not shown in the above picture) that gives me access to all of the connection points and suspension.
Next was completing the long outstanding task of mounting the Air Conditioning condenser to the frame I created for it in front of the radiator. This was a pretty simple process of drilling a few holes and securing the condenser with some screws. It was just one of those things that I’ve been meaning to finish up.
Last for the day was making some permanent mounting points for both the passenger and driver canopy rails. Right now they’re just held on with a few drywall screws while I was figuring out the proper angle. The goal was to weld on some studs to the rails so that the bolt would pass through to the outside of the cabin wall. That would give me access to the stutds from the intake cone area after the walls were secured to the chassis and it also ensured that the wheels would continue to run smoothly on the rails without hitting a bolt head.
I cut the heads off of a few bolts and then welded on some flat pieces of steel where the heads used to be. That gave me a low profile mounting material. Then I drilled out the holes through the cabin walls.
It was then simply a matter of tack welding them in-place while they were still secured to the cabin walls so that I could remove them later and complete the finish welding.
The rails actually slope downward towards the armrest area so there wasn’t much room to place a stud at the front of the rails. To solve this I welded on a couple of flanges that would then use one of the cabin wall anchor points as a place to secure the front of the rail with a bolt.
The last picture shows the rail reinstalled in the car. As always, it was then a matter of repeating the same process on the drivers side of the car. Overall a pretty good day of work :)
I decided that I was going to work on something a little more fun/interesting instead of good old bracing & supports that I’ve been working on for the last couple days. I decided it was time to tackle the extra two speaker enclosures for my afterburner sound effects.
The picture above shows how the air tank for the suspension sits in the trunk of the car. My goal was to create two speaker boxes on each side of the tank pointing outward under the car. These speakers are just like the other exterior marine speakers that I’ve used so that I don’t have to worry about exposure to the elements. This will give me a nice total of 3 speakers cranking out the afterburner sound effects :)
These enclosures started just like the rest of my other speaker enclosures, with a square piece of steel and a circle cut out of the center. The one thing that I had to account for was that I needed to give enough of a lip on the outside of the speaker face so that the enclosure could sit flush against the side walls of the trunk (you’ll see what I mean later)
After I had the main face of the enclosure finished, I drilled a hole in each corner that would be used as the bolt holes for mounting the face to the side of the trunk. From there I could trace the shape onto the side of the trunk and measure inward so that the wall opening would be slightly smaller and allow for some overlap between the enclosure face and the wall (this is why I needed that extra bit of space as a lip around the speaker face).
I checked out my BatBerry blog stats this morning and found a very welcomed surprise! It looks like the blog just rolled past the 200,000 view milestone this morning :)
I’d just like to say thank-you for all the support and encouragement from everyone following my Batmobile build. The build so far has been an absolute blast, and what makes it even more fun is all of the support, comments and engagement I receive from all of you who follow along. I also have a BBM channel (PIN: C00121FC2) where you can feel free to open up a chat with me. I sometimes post small tidbits there and include other Batman related items that aren’t really a full BatBerry blog article.
I’m really hoping to get the car in a state to be drivable this year, so stay tuned because there should be lots of really fun progress this year!
I figured it was about time that I tested my theory about doing things the second time only taking half as long as the first time. What better situation than -12C weather with a wind chill of -20C to take the morning to catch up on some episodes of the Justice Leauge and Archer in a nice warm house. That way the sun could take the entire morning to shine on my southward facing garage door to warm things up for the afternoon.
After lunch I headed out to the garage to basically repeat Day 2 only this time on the passenger side where I had very little room to work. The drivers side took me an entire day to finish, so starting after lunch seemed like a good test of my theory :)
The passenger side intake cone didn’t fit quite as snug as the drivers side so I had to perform the process in reverse. To start I needed to secure the back of the cone with a support brace as seen in the picture at the top of this post. That would ensure that the cone was in its proper position to do my measuring and creation of the foot support. Just like the drivers side, I could only temporarily weld this in-place until I get the body off to complete the finish welding.
Then it was the same process of welding on a 2×2 arm, clamping the 2.5″x4″ plate to the bottom of the step on the intake and templating up some 1/8″ material to then tack weld in-place to ensure a proper fit. Once I had everything temporarily in place I could remove the support arm out of the car and onto a more accessible table to repeat the process of making it all one nice solid piece.
And that was it…. Finished in record breaking time of 3.5 hours! When every thing had cooled off I bolted it back into position and it all fit like a glove :)
I found a little gem at Canadian Tire the other day for a pin on the actuator. I might need one that’s a bit larger in diameter, but the concept looks like it should work. I want to make sure that the part that attaches from the actuator to the canopy is a pin that I can pull whenever I need to. Just in-case I get stuck inside without any power for the actuator or the actuator fails. I figured checking to see if this would fit would be a quick and easy way to start off day 2 of my vacation.
Day 2 was dedicated to trying to figure out a couple of things that I wasn’t quite sure how to tackle:
- Creating a foot support for the side intake step
- Creating a mounting/connection plate to hold the cone securely inside the intake.
I’ve been thinking about these two tasks for a while, but until you try things out you never quite know if they’ll work or not. I wanted to make sure that I had a good solid support to go underneath the area where you step on the intake to get up and into the car. The trick is that there’s very little room between the intake cone and the step area to get any kind of support in place.
I had previously created some removable braces connected to the chassis specifically to weld on some step supports. I didn’t quite know at the time how I was going to do it, but I knew that they would have to be removable so that I could pull the body off of the car without the supports getting in the way. As you can see there isn’t very much room to work with above the intake cone.
I started off by tack welding in some 2×2 tubing to my removable brace and made sure that there was still about 1/4″ of space left between the bottom of the tubing and the intake cone.
From there I cut out a 2.5″x4″ plate out of some of my 18″ steel and found a flat spot on the intake step and clamped it in place. This would allow me to then create a bunch of templates and tack weld in some more pieces of 1/8″ steel to connect everything together for a nice solid structure.